JONATHAN SAUNDERS' last two London Fashion Week shows have both been hailed the "show of the week" by fashion's insiders - and the designer says the shift is all about maturity.

"It's lovely to feel supported," Saunders, who was launching his new collection at Matches, said. "Probably like most designers, I'm my own worst critic, but now I try to look at how the season performed; what sold, rather than focus on press coverage. When I was younger, I'd design one collection and then look at the reaction, but as you get older you become more humble; you listen to your customer and get to know her and what she wants. You learn it's not all about how you're perceived. There are elements that I hope are always there in my work: the use of colour and pattern; an easiness to the shapes; an innovativeness; a femininity without being sexy-sexy - but the brand is evolving, definitely. I'm an ambitious person and I'd love to create a global brand."

Whilst other British labels and high street stores flounder in the summer months, Saunders and contemporaries Erdem and Christopher Kane have made the season their own, with colourful prints and inventive fabrics - so what's the secret?

"I do enjoy working on summer, I love the colour, but I like winter as well," he told us. "I think to become an international brand you have to have a transeasonal feel - you can't just approach it according to season. I don't think people shop with categories in mind - 'I need a new skirt'. It's about how special it feels. The consumer wants to feel the values and the craftsmanship."

But, if you're thinking of buying Saunders a present this Christmas, the man whose dresses are amongst the most coveted in the world has expensive tastes: " Prada menswear," he smiled. "I do love Prada."

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