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EXCEEDINGLY glamorous, stinkingly rich and possibly just a touch bored with her life, the YSL woman tonight stalked around the Hotel Salomon de Rothschild like a glossy Sixties icon, her hair held up by a large glittering slide to match the giant gold buckles on her round toed block heels.

Amid the apparently relentless recurring rumours that his time at YSL is short, despite constant assurances from the management that he’s there to stay, Stefano Pilati presented an assured, confident, sumptuous collection tonight that was as optimistic as it was expensive – certainly nothing on the catwalk suggested that he was running out of ideas.

Appointed head of womenswear by Tom Ford in 2000 and then creative director when Ford left in 2004, he won over critics – the most difficult of which was Mr Saint Laurent himself – and has since become synonymous with the brand.

But sometimes there’s no telling which way the fashion carousel will turn next, and for now he’s well advised to keep his eye on the job and create clothes that people of any budget will at least dream about wearing.

It began with a dark green and black swing coat, setting the scene for a rich, autumnal palette spanning indigo and purple, dark blue, grey and black, interrupted by a cool mint, cream brocades, sheer white silk and some gorgeous ornate prints of pink and grey or blue and purple for wide, silky palazzo pants or one elegant all-in-one.

Silk blouses came backless and halterneck or with full backs and tucked into organza gym slips or silk tapered trousers. A bubblegum pink brocade waistcoat with a wide peplum was slightly more light-hearted, while a sheer black cocktail dress smothered in navy chiffon flowers at the back had a younger appeal and the two final black dresses embellished in gold were old style YSL fabulous. Pearl embellished belts and more gold capped shoes had a glorious old Hollywood feel about them too.

Pilati’s a popular man in fashion circles and we’d be sorry to see him go – but with a fashion world ever hungry for the new and next story, we can’t help thinking about who might do a different job at YSL and how they might do it.

SEE THE YVES SAINT LAURENT SHOW ARCHIVE

Comments

  1. LOVE this! there are definitely clothes i die to wear!

    alison baker
    5 Oct 2011

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