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Show Report

APPARENTLY Anna Wintour nipped backstage before Roksanda Ilincic’s spring/summer 2012 show today - we hear she's doing a recce for Michelle Obama this week so let's hope the collection got her vote.

It certainly got ours. The magenta dress, with slashed neck and giant pouf-ed skirt that made it bubble out from mid-thigh - edged in neon orange - had Vogue's new fashion editor Fran Burns pricking up her ears, as well as Jonathan Saunders. "I loved it," he told us afterwards. "Completely gorgeous." High praise from the man who showed a collection this week that is bound to dominate best dressed lists next spring.

He may well share space with Roksanda though - the wide poufed, drop-waisted skirts and bell sleeves may not be the easiest shapes to wear if you're not as lithe and tall and gorgeous as this designer, who modelled her way through Central Saint Martins in order to pay the bills - but these are the sort of clothes that encourage experimentation - she tempts you away from your comfort zone and suddenly you find it makes you look a whole lot better.

She was as bold with colour as with shape - mustard tunic dresses belted in neon, or the same rich gold tone for a full skirt teamed with turquoise towelling top, or yet more of it embroidered with silk cornflowers - it was unapologetically sumptuous and expertly finished.
 
Silk chiffon dresses of pale blue and cream were softly draped to leave a diamond of bare back, while tailored crepe ones had cuffs that burst out beneath the elbow. They were best in bright emerald green that had been dipped in more magenta from mid-thigh to ankle - as arresting as the heels that went with them carrying the same surprising colour combinations.
 
Daywear comprised the most glamorous incarnation of elastic-waisted trousers ever, high-waisted wiggle-inducing pencil skirts of finely woven raffia, and a bold navy and white check that gave the Roksanda woman something new to think about - she's so often associated with strictly high fashion pursuits, this collection still let that life lead, but there was a subtle touch of reality mixed in too that did her good.

With thanks to Mercedes Benz.

SEE THE ROKSANDA ILINCIC SHOW ARCHIVE

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