Rag & Bone

Spring/Summer 2012Ready-To-WearNew York


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Show Report

THERE is a time in everyone's life when one outgrows childish longings yet has no concern for entering adulthood. Ephemeral as this period may be, it's an undeniably special precipice - one charged with endless possibilities and little responsibilities. But alas, we know that this blithe equivocating can't last forever, and the dutiful must eventually grow up.
 
But wait, that's not the missive behind designers Marcus Wainwright and David Neville's latest collection for Rag & Bone. With so many options available to women today, why must everything be an either/or? Can't a bronzed beach goddess and a professional woman be one and the same? Look to their runway (which opened when a hovering ceiling panel of pulsing lights lifted skyward), and you'll hear a resounding yes.
 
While the overarching impression certainly pointed towards the sandy dunes where the sea and land meet - a stark contrast from the tartan-clad collegiate of last season - there was much more to this collection than that. Yes, there were surf and scuba-influenced hooded ponchos, fisherman knit sleeveless tops, nylon anoraks, breezy peasant tops, and goggle-inspired sunglasses but those archetypal pieces were sandwiched between two opposing worlds: work and play. For work, the designers remained faithful to the brand's core of traditional suiting, with plenty of sharp blazers (in neon orange and tweedy blues), and generously cut pants, but underneath many of the sheer layers (and almost every look had many, many layers), was a peek of radiant swimwear. Bandeau tops shone through translucent cover-ups and bikini bottoms peeked out from the waistline of skirts, injecting an unexpected, but welcomed, sensuality.
 
Towards the end of the show, more themes starting emerging: optical M.C. Escher-like patterns, variations of the chunky grandma cardigan, and patchwork pieces among them, but they only weighed down an otherwise friendly, contemporary showing. We much prefer the girl who may rule with an iron fist in the boardroom, but secretly dreams of endless days at the beach.

SEE THE RAG & BONE SHOW ARCHIVE

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