“IT was very Matthew – exuberant and colourful and really sexy,” said Alexandra Shulman after Matthew Williamson’s show tonight. “And it’s quite a coup to be in the Tate’s Turbine Hall – I’ve never been to a show here before.”
The combination of the characteristic colour and sex appeal, that he is so well known for, with new elements to move it forward has become part of Williamson’s signature just as much as his gorgeous line up of girlfriends – Dree Hemingway, the latest recruit in his A-list fan club, was on the catwalk tonight to prove that one.
The impressive setting formed a fabulous backdrop for a collection that had moved the designer out of what could be regarded as his comfort zone this season. “It’s loosely based on the Japanese influences that I worked on quite heavily for my pre-collection,” he told us beforehand. “I’ve never really looked in that direction until now but it’s created some really beautiful shapes that are quite a move forward for me.” A looser silhouette on softly draped dresses with relaxed obi ties at the back illustrated that. “I want it to be chic and womanly – les girly and hopefully even more refined than normal.”
“There is a preconceived notion of the label being all about holidays, the jet set, Ibiza parties – all those clichés, for want of a better word. I wanted to keep the DNA of the brand but explore new territory, literally and figuratively.”
The references to Japan were very subtle and beautifully conceived. A gorgeous stretched blossom print turned out, on closer inspection, to bare a sky scraper landscape of Tokyo in another signature juxtaposition of nature with graphic modernity.
The colour palette took us through a rich sunset, coursing from dark plums , mustard and bronze to eye popping fuchsia, coral and flame orange – for one particular dress whose degrade chiffon skirt could feasibly set off alarms – and then eventually to dark Ikat prints of olive and navy.
With Williamson it’s always really the dresses that make the headlines – in bursts of chiffon embroidered with ostrich and beads of every description, painstakingly hand embroidered to bring into relief the prints that preceded them. They’ll be great for his It-girl line up, but he styles them up with sleeveless nappa jackets so that she’s fit for travel as well as any dance floor that comes her way.
There were beautifully tailored blazers in every colour, worn with contrasting chiffon blouses and trousers or loose shorts tied around the waist with braid – all styled up with fabulous bags encrusted with shells and long degrade fringing as well as more shoes from Charlotte Olympia whose presence on the catwalks of New York and London so far is testament to her great talent.
“I asked her if she’d work with us and she was keen, so here we are,” said Matthew. “Our brief to each other was to make them 50 per cent her and 50 per cent me, and I think we’ve achieved that –she’s made them look really fresh and young. I mean, who wouldn’t want these in their life?”
With thanks to Mercedes Benz.
SEE THE MATTHEW WILLIAMSON SHOW ARCHIVE