SINCE reviving the label in 2007, designer Max Azria has struck a winning formula with the superlative Herve Leger bandage dress. The svelte silhouette of Azria’s iconic body-con dress has been basking in must-have status for It girls for years now, a favourite among not-so-demure starlets like Ashlee Simpson, Jessica Szhor and LeAnn Rimes, all of whom sat front row this season.
Since the concept remains more or less the same each season, the significance of each new Herve Leger bandage dress collection then is in the details – after all, if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. This season, Azria sought to embody the “Golden Age of Americana” with a palette of neutrals and polished metal tones, adding complex embellishment including braiding, weaving and fringing to his signature designs.
The introduction of attention-grabbing metallic fabrics and delicate beading was intriguing, a daring black foil bandage dress paired with black and metallic suede jacket a particular standout.
The all-important slender silhouette was also tweaked - continuing on from last season’s flattering A-line shape, spring/summer 2012 saw the introduction of flattering low swing skirts, as well as spacey Y-shaped modish necklines appropriated from the Sixties – an era visited repeatedly on this season’s runways.
It’s interesting to see Azria borrow from another decade (other than scorching Robert Palmer Eighties), when he most commonly adheres only to Herve Leger’s own iconic style. This season's subtle point of difference is perhaps an indication that in order to stay fresh, the label must be open to the inclusion of forthcoming trends - that said, for now the bandage dress still reigns.
SEE THE HERVE LEGER BY MAX AZRIA SHOW ARCHIVE