STRAIGHT after the Christopher Kane show, it felt unfair that Erdem should send out such a tear jerker of a collection – even those most cynical about fashion couldn’t deny that this was touching.
Set in the ballroom of The Savoy, it comprised the designer’s signature florals but given a more grown-up allure. Dresses were tailored close to the body and off each shoulder – cornflowers and blue hydrangeas taking the spotlight for the first few looks – or low backed and held on by shoe string straps.
Then the blue turned to yellow interspersed with red poppies and then lace took over for glorious full-length gowns for which the print was picked out in lace embroidery. A pale blue satin trench coat had flowers scattered across it and then floral shift dresses, some with prim buttoned up collars, were overlaid in iridescent sequins or ribbons of chiffon carrying faded versions of the same print to give them a gorgeous movement.
Laser-cut lace and another darker print of swallows and flowers appeared on high waisted dresses will full pleated skirts that were about as romantic as fashion can be. In contrast, and yet still as pretty, there were hotpants – far more overtly sexy than Erdem ever does, which will gain the approval of those of his fans who wanted something new from him – in the same blue floral with panels of lace at either side.
Nude lace dresses with navy detailing had a delicate precision that would give the current Valentino designers serious competition – and a white version meant we could almost hear every bride-to-be in the room sigh.
“It was like a summer garden, so jubilant,” said Erin O’Connor after the show. “I love that he’s able to create a soft trench with that level of detail and intricacy - and that everything he does is so soft and feminine. I want to pour myself into everything – except maybe the hot pants, that would be illegal.”
With thanks to Mercedes Benz.
SEE THE ERDEM SHOW ARCHIVE