DONNA KARAN cited her extended stay in Haiti as the inspiration for her latest collection, for spring/summer 2012, but she can never really escape the city, can she? What's the saying? Wherever you go, there you are. But to watch the designer merge two diametrically opposed worlds made for an engaging show.
Karan shed her usual shrouded layers for a stronger figure. She stayed close to home with a muted colour story, one dominated by organically rich brown and heavy ebony and punctuated by heliotrope and lush jade, oftentimes reminiscent of wood grain or cave paintings. Tribal patterns comprised of broad, elegant brushstrokes decorated the contained dresses. Another strong story that the designer employed was that of the circle skirt, ripe with movement. They were paired with draped corsets, a bandeau top, or an oversized, floppy nylon jacket. There was a party dress feel to these — strong necklines, shoulders exposed and full skirt—but a primal energy was incorporated with raw, unfinished hems.
Karan did not abandon her beloved jerseys, but she also included textural variety with stretch canvas and organza, which stood away from the body, creating an airy effect. Beading played a strong decorative role, with shell-like droplets along seams that had a subtle impact. The designer had an especially strong season for accessories. Substantial necklaces and bracelets of chunky wood and lucite were hits as were the wooden-soled gladiators and sleek clutches.
By now, Karan is a pro, and we're lucky, because in lesser hands this inspiration could lose its appeal and become hokey and too literal — but Karan found shades of feminine vulnerability and powerful sophistication beneath these exotic inclinations.
SEE THE DONNA KARAN COLLECTION SHOW ARCHIVE