THE pressure was on for Jo Sykes at Aquascutum this morning – her debut catwalk show for the label in February received rave reviews and put her on the hot ticket list for this season, but this season is spring/summer and that’s not as easy a feat for a heritage brand whose reputation is built on outerwear.
She filled the winter weather gap with more of her own signature looks – wide mannish trousers and blazers – giving a very cool version of androgyny a dose of modernity by treating the fabrics so differently: full legged trousers shimmered, collars were raised by shiny leather panels and fine tweed trousers had stripes of more leather down each leg.
There were high necked, sleeveless string vests and more slick tweed for double-hemmed mini skirts; sexy sheer blouses and black, smartly tailored Capri pants with matching coats. A shock of yellow appeared via a silky, full length evening gown and a black silk and lace jumpsuit made us wonder where we were for a second.
It was soft and wearable – with one or two moments of over-complicated daywear - versus a more hardcore masculine attitude. Like the balance of old heritage and new ideas, it’s a tricky one to play but Sykes took on the challenge with a confident flourish.
With thanks to Mercedes Benz.
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