FOR spring, Anna Sui loosened her grip on the rock ’n’ roll-bohemia she’s made her signature to make way for a new and impressive aesthetic – Forties burlesque glamour via Studio 54.
Gone were the audacious mod-driven knit and print ensembles of autumn/winter 2011-12, and nowhere to be seen the angelic prairie girl of last spring - instead, we saw one of Sui’s strongest collection’s in recent years, featuring knock-out feminine pre-war-inspired cuts in sumptuous chiffons and crepe-de-chines, with playful and endlessly cool prints. It was clear Sui had no intention of fitting in with the prevailing looks of the season, rather staying true to what she does best – showcasing her own unique and whimsical viewpoint, and setting new trends.
Sui has gained a reputation for cultivating specific and exclusive left-of-centre references, but transforming them into collections of modern, accessible clothing that has over the last 20-plus-years proven a favourite both cross-culturally and cross-demographically. his season was no exception, with the designer focusing her attention on the intriguing Club Sept, the creative melting-pot and definitive place to be of Seventies Paris fashion - in particular focusing on American illustrator Antonio Lopez’s impact on the scene. This vision was expanded to involve a little disco fever, in the form of turbans atop frizzed-out hair, flared trouser ensembles, sexy lacquered lips, flowing skirts and long hemlines, and just a little sequin and shimmering embellishment.
As usual, a glowing Karen Elson opened the show, this season stepping out to a wildly enthusiastic crowd, broadly smiling in an adorable Forties-style dress, with a black and white marabou shrug. Other key looks included a knock-out black tulle kimono, atop silk shorts, sailor-inspired romper with sailor hat, a high-waisted skirt paired with a super-cute bustier top and sculpted waist-cinched blazer, a butterfly winged sheer silk dress and insanely sweet heart-print dresses in both black and peach. The collection was well-edited and well-conceived, and all wonderfully Anna Sui - guaranteed to win over her adoring fans yet again.
SEE THE ANNA SUI SHOW ARCHIVE