LANVIN’s spring/summer 2012 catwalk show was a collection comprised from two wartime stories. One was tough, severe and unapologetic; the other was bright, soft and conveyed a feeling of optimism.
The first half of the collection ran on a strict military theme – as we have seen elsewhere this week at Yves Saint Laurent. Models wore their hair in Medieval-style bowl cuts or shorn completely, and were clad for battle in army boots and layers of moulded leather, snakeskin and shiny patents, all in traditional military tones of chocolate brown, navy, beige and grey.
Zips, here, were a significant detail - used to best effect when placed in the centre of knee-length jackets creating a long and lean silhouette.
Tough looks eventually gave way to softer tones of lilac, dove grey and mustard; the clothes portraying a visible yield in the aggressive mood with relaxed layers of worn-in nylons and cottons. Bright single- and double-breasted suits followed, before the colourful theme collapsed completely into retro two-tone shirts and patterned dip-dyed leggings and layered tops. A hint at the other side of the wartime coin perhaps? Peace, love and the anti-war movement.
“I was eager to introduce the military uniform. We started with a look that was in leather, beige and brown [but] finally the idea was to move away from the military aspect to the story of the soldiers – not of war but of peace, that’s the idea,” said Lanvin creative director Alber Elbaz of the collection.
Tinker, tailor, solider or spy – Lanvin spring/summer 2012 had something for every man.
SEE THE LANVIN SHOW ARCHIVE