THE first John Galliano show without the man himself was an opportunity for the company's ceo to introduce the label's new creative director, long-time Galliano associate Bill Gaytten. A tight theme - Big Splash, honouring various incarnations of artist David Hockney - cleverly steered the show in a controlled direction, as if too free a creative reign might have veered towards a Galliano anthology. The man was there though, particularly in the first few looks: drop-crotch trousers; layered checked and striped tailoring; and military jackets evoking him at his most dramatic. But as Hockney lookalikes in round dark-rimmed glasses took their turn, the sartorial palette was cleansed and a new era heralded. The man who played down his new role as "the job he has been doing for a long time", produced a carefully conceived, wearable collection - and showed a surprising absence of the pressure everyone assumes he is now bearing. Gaytten's task is similar to that of Sarah Burton - who has made such a success of the mantle of her mentor - but if Galliano returns to fashion, how will the name compete with the man?
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